When Sridhar set out to explore Sri Lanka with a group of lifelong friends, the trip became more than just a holiday — it became a journey through wildlife, heritage and shared memories.

Over eight days, he travelled from Kalpitiya’s coastline to Wilpattu National Park, from the ancient rock fortress of Sigiriya to the hill country of Kandy.

The narrative below is based on Sridhar’s detailed travel notes.

Reunion in Colombo & Onward to Kalpitiya

During January a group of 6 of us had a trip to a few places in Sri Lanka. Some of us were meeting after almost 40 years. So, it was a memorable meeting. We did a clockwise route starting in Colombo (but quickly transiting to Kalpitiya). We spent 3 nights in Kalpitiya and then proceeded to Wilpattu (close to the National Park). We spent a night at Wilpattu and then via Anuradhapura (where we had a delightful lunch) arrived at Dambulla (for 1 night stay). We climbed the Sigiriya Rock, and visited the Dambulla Caves.

After that we proceeded to Kandy where we stayed for 4 nights. The following is a brief of what our experience has been.

Drive from Colombo to Kalpitiya

Lunch at Negombo

Landing in Colombo, around 12 noon, we were met at the airport by Mr. Thushan (driver for our journey) whom we got to know quite well by the end of the trip. He welcomed us with a simple garland of shells and led us to the car.

The car had a high roof and was comfortable enough for the 6 of us plus luggage.

We drove straight from the airport to Negombo (a suburb about 30 minutes North of Colombo. One of my friends had picked this restaurant called Koththamalli. The restaurant served vegan and vegetarian cuisine and had a very interesting selection of mocktails, with combinations of mango, lime, tamarind and coconut. Next door there was an Ayurveda Spa that offered soothing massages.

After lunch, we proceeded to Kalpitiya. The duration for the drive on Google Maps showed 4+ hours. Stopping briefly on the way around halfway stage for tea (which was very milky and not that flavorful).

Being addicted to coffee I am used to a good strong coffee in the morning. And not knowing the coffee situation in different places, I travelled with a bottle of instant coffee, which came in very handy everywhere as most of the coffee and tea were too milky for me.

Kalpitiya – Blue Whale Resort

Blue Whale resort in Kalpitiya faces the Indian Ocean. The peninsula also has one of the largest lagoons in Asia. The waves on the Indian Ocean side are much stronger and Kalpitiya is one of the world’s best places for Kite Surfing.

The Blue Whale resort had direct access to the beach. The beach itself was not very clean, mostly seaweed and other things washed up from the sea and not many swimmers. There were a lot of small speedboats (fishermen trying to catch Tuna).  There were also larger boats that took tourists for Dolphin watching (which we did on one of the days). The food and the room at Blue Whale resort was good and staff friendly.

Next to the resort there was a large coconut grove, and we could see contract laborers ripping the husk out of the coconuts, at an astonishing rate – almost 3 coconuts a minute. With a practiced arm, the man was piercing the coconut on an upright sharp pole and ripping the fibrous covering in 1 smooth action.

Kalpitiya has a lot to offer. One can go Dolphin watching, swimming on the beaches, kite surfing (there are kite surfing classes also on the lagoon which has winds of lower intensity) but need at least 8-15 days for taking such lessons. We did a lagoon tour by boat which was quite nice.

The boat trip took us to the very tip of the peninsula to a place called “Ucchi-muni” beach which literally means the “very tip”. It seemed to be a perfect location for Kite Surfing as we could see many serious kite-surfers setting up their Kites.

Dolphin Watching

We went on a Dolphin watching trip. For the first 30 minutes the boat sped along into the Indian Ocean, and the waves kept slamming the speed boat “bang – bang – bang” and there was water all around us but no Dolphins in sight. Then in the middle of nowhere in the sea there was a solitary boat with a man standing in it. Our boatman asked him whether he sighted any dolphins and he pointed us in a certain direction. We sped along in that direction and we were simply taken aback on the number of dolphins there and furiously active they were.

We were told that for Whale watching the best time is March onwards. We were with the dolphins, playing hide and seek for almost a full hour and after we had our fill we came back. The photos and the videos give you some idea but seeing it in real life is a great sight.

Into the Wild – Wilpattu

Wilpattu is famous for its National Park. There are 2 safaris” the morning safari starts at 5.30 am and finishes by 11.30 am and the afternoon safari starts at 12.30 pm and finishes by 4.30 pm. Or one can opt for a full day safari. The Wilpattu National park is famous for its leopard sightings but one has to be lucky.

Coming from Kalpitiya the previous day we came into the Cloud Nine Lanka Resort by lunch time. The resort itself is set amongst nature and quite beautiful cottages in a large amount of ground covered by nature. We were told to keep balcony doors closed for insects and other smaller creatures that may want to share the bed with you.

The staff were super friendly and were willing to customize many dishes. One of the activities they offered was the night walk, which would start at 9.30 pm and we would go looking for a small Sri Lankan nocturnal animal called “Loris“.

The next morning the plan was to take a packed breakfast and go on the morning safari at 5.30 am. The national park was about 45 minutes away, so it was going to be an early start the next day.

The Night Walk

The night walk was interesting and so was the sunset view across the lagoon. We were given the miner type head torch that lit the way during our walk. But we could not see the “Loris” but it was an interesting experience. We saw a busy spider at work casting his web.

The charges for the night walk (about 1.5 hours) were quite exorbitant, but it was conditional upon seeing the animal. Since we did not sight Loris, no fees were paid.

That evening, we joined a guided night walk to spot the elusive Sri Lankan Loris. Armed with miner-style head torches, we walked through the darkness listening for movement.

We didn’t see the Loris — but we did observe a spider meticulously weaving its web. Interestingly, the fee for the walk was conditional upon sighting the animal. Since we didn’t see one, we weren’t charged.

Safari Morning

The next morning began early — a 5:30 AM safari. The park was about 45 minutes away.

We had underestimated the need for cash. Safari jeep hire and park entry cost around 80,000 Sri Lankan Rupees, and neither USD nor credit cards were accepted. UPI was nonexistent. Fortunately, our driver helped us with a cash advance.

The jeep ride was chilly and bumpy at dawn. We attempted to eat our packed breakfast while moving — not easy. At a rest stop midway, we stepped away briefly, only to return and discover that a group of monkeys had eaten our breakfast entirely.

It was a lesson in never leaving food unattended.

Leopard sightings require luck, but the sunrise over the landscape and the sheer vastness of the park made the safari worthwhile.

Anuradhapura – An Unexpected Culinary Highlight

We left Kalpitiya in the morning after breakfast and made our way to Anuradhapura. We had read about the various stupas there. The idea was to swing by Anuradhapura, have lunch somewhere there and then make our way to Dambulla by nightfall. Online we looked up good restaurants in Anuradhapura, and “Little Paradise” was rated high.

We made our way through very narrow streets, and it led us into a large square surrounded by quite nice bungalows and Little Paradise was a bungalow converted into a restaurant and guest house. We turned up unexpectedly and the manager/chef took his time but cooked one of the most delicious meals we had on the trip. We didn’t mind the wait, holding on to our beer bottles and taking in the serene garden around the house/bungalow. There were a couple of guests staying there and it seemed like a nice central and quiet place to stay at Anuradhapura.

We finally reached Dambulla and checked into a very grand hotel “Sigiriya Resort”. We had planned to stay only 1 night in Dambulla and then we had 4 nights in Kandy. Seeing the nice hotel, its grand grounds, lovely swimming pool, we were tempted to stay 1 more night here and reduce to Kandy to 3 nights. But we could not change the reservations and rooms were not available.

The hotel was fabulous. Huge grounds, good food and some good music. We had this flying squirrel pay us a visit whilst at breakfast.

Dambulla had 2 main attractions: The Cave temple of Dambulla and the Sigiriya rock which we had planned to climb. We decided the next day to leave a little late from the hotel (enjoy the comforts) and then reach the Cave temples by noon. After that have lunch somewhere near Sigiriya and then climb the Sigiriya rock closer to evening so the sun won’t be too harsh.

About Dambulla Cave Temple

Dambulla cave temple (Sinhala: දඹුල්ල රජ මහා විහාරය, romanized: Dam̆būlla Raja Maha Vihāraya; Tamil: தம்புள்ளை பொற்கோவில், also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla, is a World Heritage Site (1991) in Sri Lanka, situated in the central part of the country. This site is situated 43 kilometres (27 mi) north of Matale.

Dambulla is the largest and best-preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka. The rock towers 160 m (520 ft) over the surrounding plains. There are more than eighty documented caves in the surrounding area. Major attractions are spread over five caves, which contain statues and paintings. These paintings and statues are related to Gautama Buddha and his life. There are a total of 153 Buddha statues, three statues of Sri Lankan kings and four statues of gods and goddesses. The latter include Vishnu and the Ganesha. The murals cover an area of 2,100 square metres (23,000 sq ft). Depictions on the walls of the caves include the temptation by the demon Mara, and Buddha's first sermon.

This temple complex dates back to the first century BCE.^[2] It has five caves under a vast overhanging rock, carved with a drip line to keep the interiors dry. In 1938 the architecture was embellished with arched colonnades and gabled entrances. Inside the caves, the ceilings are painted with intricate patterns of religious images following the contours of the rock. There are images of the Lord Buddha and bodhisattvas, as well as various gods and goddesses.

The Dambulla cave monastery is still functional and remains the best-preserved ancient edifice in Sri Lanka. This complex dates from the third and second centuries BC, when it was already established as one of the largest and most important monasteries.

The temple is composed of five caves of varying sizes and magnificence. The caves, built at the base of a 150m high rock during the Anuradhapura (1st century BC to 993 and Polonnaruwa times (1073 to 1250), are by far the most impressive of the many cave temples found in Sri Lanka.

Dambulla & Sigiriya – Sri Lanka’s Cultural Heart

Sigiriya or Sinhagiri (Lion Rock Sinhala: සීගිරිය, Tamil: சிகிரியா/சிங்ககிரி, pronounced SEE-gi-ri-yə) is an ancient rock fortress located in the northern Matale District near the town of Dambulla in the Central Province, Sri Lanka. It is a site of historical and archaeological significance that is dominated by a massive column of granite approximately 180 m (590 ft) high.

According to the ancient Sri Lankan chronicle the Cūḷavaṃsa, this area was a large forest, then after storms and landslides it became a hill and was selected by King Kashyapa (CE 477–495) for his new capital. He built his palace on top of this rock and decorated its sides with colourful frescoes. On a small plateau about halfway up the side of this rock he built a gateway in the form of an enormous lion. The name of this place is derived from this structure; Sinhagiri, the Lion Rock.

The capital and the royal palace were abandoned after the king's death. It was used as a Buddhist monastery until the 14th century. Sigiriya today is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. It is one of the best-preserved examples of ancient urban planning.

Both the visit to the Cave Temple and the climb up Sigiriya Rock were smooth. The climb took us 30 minutes and the return also almost same time. On the way down there is a small detour to see some  cave murals.

The 5th-century frescoes on the way up/down Sigiriya Rock are known as the Sigiriya Damsels or Apsaras (celestial nymphs). Painted on a sheer rock face, these vibrant, waist-up figures depict women with flowers, possibly representing consorts of King Kasyapa or divine figures, and are located near a spiral staircase.

How and why was Sigiriya Lion Rock abandoned?

Kashyapa’s reign was short-lived, as he was defeated and killed by his brother Moggallana in 495 CE, after a bloody battle at the foot of Sigiriya Lion Rock. Moggallana restored the original capital at Anuradhapura, and Sigiriya Lion Rock was abandoned and neglected for centuries. It was later occupied by Buddhist monks, who used it as a monastery and a pilgrimage site. They also added their own inscriptions and paintings to the mirror wall, which became a repository of ancient graffiti.

Sigiriya Lion Rock was rediscovered by British archaeologists in the 19th century, who were amazed by its beauty and mystery. They began to excavate and restore the site and revealed its hidden treasures and secrets. Sigiriya Lion Rock was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982 and is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in Sri Lanka. It is also a source of pride and inspiration for the Sri Lankan people, who regard it as a symbol of their ancient civilization and heritage.

What are the main features of Sigiriya Lion Rock?

Sigiriya Lion Rock is a masterpiece of ancient engineering and art, that showcases the skill and creativity of its builders and designers. It is divided into several areas and levels, each with its own function and style.

The main features of Sigiriya Lion Rock are:

The water gardens: The water gardens are located at the base of the rock, and are composed of pools, fountains, ponds, and canals. They are fed by an ingenious hydraulic system, that uses underground pipes and gravity to supply water from a nearby reservoir.

The water gardens are designed to create a pleasant and refreshing environment, and to reflect the beauty of the rock and the sky. They are also symbolic of the cosmic ocean, that surrounds Mount Meru in Hindu mythology.

The lion gate: The lion gate is the entrance to the summit complex and is the most iconic feature of Sigiriya Lion Rock. It is shaped like a huge lion, with its paws and claws carved out of the rock, and its head and body made of brick and plaster.

The lion gate is a symbol of the power and majesty of King Kashyapa, and his connection to the lion cult. It is also a representation of the guardian of the rock, who protects it from evil and intruders. Visitors must climb a steep staircase that passes through the lion’s mouth, to reach the top of the rock.

Kandy – Hills, Tea & Evenings with Arrack

After the Cave temple Visit and the climb up Sigiriya Rock, we set off for Kandy around 5 pm. We reached our hotel Grand Kandyan set on top of a hill. Our large van with a high roof filled up most of the road width and made its way up the windy road, into the hotel. The hotel was huge and easily the most luxurious we had stayed so far. We were met by a hotel staff, all suited and booted, and welcomed us with a thick East European accent. We got our rooms on the 6^th floor which had just few rooms and a Presidential suite and we had easy access to the terrace, which offered great views of Kandy.

Kandy is quite hilly and as the hotel was on top of a hill, we had to make our way down for most of the sights. Distances are not big but took us about 20-30 minutes to get to any place.

Kandyan Wedding

It was the wedding season at Kandy and the Grand Kandyan hotel where we were staying was the venue for several marriages (they had 4 weddings on 1 day). We could witness the wedding customs and costumes worn by the bride and groom and the welcome party for the groom.

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage

On the way back to Colombo from Kandy we stopped at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. We got there in time (need to get there before 12 noon) to see the elephants getting bathed in the river. The Elephant orphanage hosts the elephants and one can witness them playing and fooling around and getting fed. Certainly worth a visit and it is a marvelous sight to see these large, gentle animals.

Initially we thought 4 days in Kandy might be too much but somehow we could spend quality time in Kandy and we could do it in a relaxed manner.

Reflections After Eight Days

Initially, we wondered if four days in Kandy might be too much. In hindsight, it allowed us to experience the city in a relaxed and unhurried way.

After eight days, we returned with wonderful memories and a slight tinge of sadness at leaving such a beautiful country.

Sri Lanka offers beaches, wildlife, tea estates, rich culture across religions, good food, friendly people and relatively manageable traffic. The country felt neat and organised, with people displaying strong civic sense.

It is certainly worth visiting.

— Sridhar Krishnamoorthy

(Travel notes shared with Yuyiii)